Garden Projects

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What is a no-dig garden?

Well, as you can probably guess, it’s exactly as it sounds. A no-dig garden is when, rather than digging or tilling into the ground, you pile layers right on top of the grass or weeds where you intend to start a garden. Each layer contributes to building healthy, nutrient-rich soil that will eliminate weed growth and quickly convert tough ground into rich, fertile soil which you can turn into the vibrant, flourishing garden of your dreams. There is a common misconception that tilling and digging up the ground is necessary to aerate the soil and improve drainage, when in fact doing so actually increases weed growth and decreases soil quality and drainage over time. Don’t believe me? Take a look:

This was how my soil looked after tilling for 4 years in a row, even with the addition of compost and organic material. The soil became more and more compact and clay-like and the drainage was terrible. Much of what I planted was struggling to grow and produce.

This was the soil quality of my no-dig garden after the first year. When the growing season was complete, I cut back dead plants at the base rather than ripping them out of the ground and allowed the roots to decompose and feed the soil. Healthy soil quality is accomplished through allowing these natural processes to occur, rather than disrupting them and attempting to manufacture a good environment for growth.

Why convert to a no-dig garden?

1. Significant improvement to the health and quality of your soil through addition of organic material, which builds structure and complexity over time rather than disturbing the natural processes.
2. Saves time, money, and effort to not have to dig up the ground or buy/rent a tiller.
3. Decreases amount of weeds immediately and reduces pressure of weed growth over time.
4. Better protection against pests and disease with healthier plants and soil.
5. Improves drainage, therefore decreasing water runoff and flooding.

How it started vs. how it ended:

My goal was to turn the entire back portion of my yard into a giant garden, and as you can see, I was able to accomplish that in less than a year. I measured the space I intended to cover and the area was 75 feet across and 9 1/2 feet deep, which came out to approximately 700 square feet! Could you imagine trying to dig up all that grass?

How to set up your no-dig garden:

I recommend setting aside a good six months to obtain the ideal soil condition for planting your garden, so late fall is the perfect time to get this project started to have it ready for planting in the spring. The cardboard needs time to break down and the compost needs time to cool down and completely decompose into it’s humus state so that it’s not too potent for plants and seeds. However, if you don’t have that much time to spare, don’t fret. There are ways to get started with a no-dig garden without having to wait months before planting and I’ve provided details on that towards the end of this post. Without further ado, let’s get into it! There are several ways to accomplish a no-dig garden, but I found this method to be fairly easy and affordable. Here is a step-by-step tutorial on how I set mine up:

Layer 1: Cardboard

The purpose of the cardboard is to create a barrier that smothers and kills the existing grass and weeds beneath it, while also providing nutrients to the soil as it breaks down. Make sure to remove all tape and staples when breaking down your cardboard. Do not use colored cardboard, as it contains dyes and a is usually coated in a plastic film, so it will not properly break down. A single layer will work fine, however two layers will be a more protective barrier against weeds attempting to poke through.

Layer 2: Compost

You will need at least 6 inches of firmed compost to create enough depth for planting. Regular soil is not recommended for this step because it does not contain the same amount of organic material and will not be as effective as compost when it comes to converting the dense earth into rich, fertile soil.

Note: Firming is what happens when you step on top of the compost, which will make the soil dense enough to help plant roots to stay anchored and also help to retain moisture. This is NOT the same as compacting, which is done by putting much more pressure on the soil (such as by jumping on it or using an earth rammer) and can hinder the growth of roots.

Layer 3: Mulch

The purpose of the mulch is an added layer of protection against weeds, while also adding extra nutrients and retaining moisture. There are many types of mulch you can use, including rotted hay or straw, wood shavings, or even wood chips. I have a giant oak tree in my front yard that dumps TONS of leaves each year, so that’s obviously what I chose to use.

Six months later:

I finished setting up my no-dig garden on November 1, 2022 and began planting on April 12, 2023. After almost six months of allowing the cardboard and compost to fully breakdown, it was time to remove the leaf mulch and start planting! As you can see in the picture below, I also added some woodchips to use as a pathway, but this step is optional and completely depends on how and where you choose to set up your garden. At this point the compost should be entirely decomposed into it’s humus state, meaning all the organic material has completely decayed and there’s no risk of harming your plants!

Don’t want to wait 6 months?

If you want to skip the waiting period and get started right now, you can absolutely do so! There are just a few things you should be aware of:

1. The cardboard takes at least 2 months to break down enough for roots to penetrate and reach the ground beneath, so make sure the layer of compost that you’re planting into is deep enough for them to grow during this period.
2. Be sure to use compost that is completely decomposed into it’s humus state and cooled down, otherwise it will be too potent for delicate seedlings and new seeds.
3. Mulch isn’t entirely necessary if you will be planting into your new garden bed immediately, but I would still recommend mulching around new plantings for an extra layer of organic material and moisture retention.

Cost Breakdown:

Cardboard: Free! I save all my cardboard boxes from deliveries so I had quite a bit stocked up. I also asked around and was fortunate enough to receive a whole bunch from friends.

Compost: $210 for 6 cubic yards. This was my only real cost for the entire project, aside from ordering seeds. Keep in mind this was enough to cover 700 square feet! So, the cost will vary based on how much ground you intend to cover.

Leaf mulch: Also free! All from the enormous California Black Oak tree in my front yard.

Where to source materials:

Weed barrier (cardboard): This can be completely free of charge! Try asking around, either to friends and family, or even by calling local stores and warehouses to see if they have any laying around. Although, if you are having trouble finding cardboard, another option is piling newspaper or contractor paper. I’ve even seen some people use sheets of wool they had available.

Compost: If you plan to cover a lot of ground, I would definitely suggest buying this in bulk to save money. Just check the internet to find your local composting facility. Here in Lane County, Oregon, I get my bulk deliveries through Lane Forest Products, so that’s who I would recommend if you’re local! You can use homemade compost if you have a supply.

Mulch: Fallen leaves are certainly the cheapest and easiest option in my opinion. If this is not available to you, wood chips or rotted hay are also great options for mulch. Wood chips will take the longest to break down, but they can be left on as permanent mulch when it comes time to plant. Just make sure to plant into the soil beneath the wood chips, rather than directly into them. These can easily be sourced free of charge by contacting your local arborist for a drop off, or by ordering through ChipDrop.

Things to watch out for:

1. If using wood chips for mulch, make sure you know where they are sourced from! They can contain invasive plants and seeds, pests, and diseases that can wreak havoc on your garden and set you up for failure. The same goes for rotted hay, so whatever method you use, just be sure you know exactly where it came from and what’s in it.
2. Know which type of leaves can cause harm to your garden. While most leaves are safe to use as mulch, there are several varieties to avoid. These include eucalyptus and black walnut, as they contain elements that may damage your plants. More obvious ones to avoid are poisonous plants, like poison oak or ivy and poison sumac.
3. Make sure cardboard is clear of plastic tapes and staples, as they will never break down or decompose and can cause damage to your garden down the line.
4. Make sure compost is completely cooled and decomposed before planting directly into it. If compost is too hot and potent, it will burn your plants and seedlings.

Tools to help get the job done:

Below is a list of tools that I used during the process that can help save you time and energy, none of which are completely necessary:

• Wheel barrow: for moving compost and leaves.

• Leaf rake: for spreading leaves.

• Garden rake: more heavy-duty than leaf rake, for spreading compost.

• Hoe: also useful for spreading compost.

What you have to look forward to with your no-dig garden:

I hope that after reading this post, you have the knowledge and motivation to get started on the garden of your dreams! Had I known this was possible, and just how easy it was to start a no-dig garden, I would have done it years ago. There is no better time than now, so start stocking up on that cardboard, do a quick google search to find your local composting facility, and go plan out your plot! Please don’t hesitate to leave a comment down below if you have any questions, or to let me know about your experience. I’d love to hear from you!